Time for “Sagre”: local food festivals in Italy

FB_BlogTemplate-single_02Italians are universally known for being absolutely passionate about their love and appreciation for good food and wine. Year round, rural towns and villages across Italy offer the perfect occasion to celebrate typical and regional culinary delights by throwing a sagra, a food festival specifically organized to highlight a region’s specialty or famous local product. The festival will be held during the time of year that specific ingredient is harvested or is at the peak of its season.

The term “sagra” derives from Latin “sacrum” meaning holy: in ancient times these events were dedicated religious pagan celebrations where sacrifices were made as an offering in honor of the successful harvest. Nowadays, these festivals have acquired a different function in the local community even though they follow traditions that have been upheld for decades, even hundreds of years in some towns. Some of the most famous sagre in Italy are no longer old- style food fairs where only the local residents contribute & attend, but have now actually become a true tourist attraction, hosting thousands of people during the course of the event, which often run for 10 days or so.FB_BlogTemplate-single_01

Either way, attending a small town sagra is an absolute must to experience an authentic Italian rural setting- you’ll literally be rubbing elbows with the locals at crowded picnic tables set up one after another under enormous carnival style tents. A meal at the sagra is an unpretentious food experience- paper tablecloths and plastic-ware are abound, even the local table wine is served on tap in recycled glass bottles. No fancy frills are necessary to celebrate whatever outstanding product is being honored, be it fresh homemade pasta, artisanal cheese, new “novella” wines, cured and grilled meats, seasonal vegetables or specialties including truffles even wild boar. Cafeteria-style seating is the only option so get there early. The acoustics will hinder any intimate chat, so expect a chaotic but convivial atmosphere. Weekends are the most crowded since many festivals host local bands on weekend nights. The other main appeal to the sagre is the dancing, typically ballroom. Italians of all ages get up to participate- the entertainment on the dance floor is worth it while you wait for your order number to be called out!

At the larger sagre hundreds of local volunteers run the show, from the menu ordering stations to the open air kitchens that are manned by various generations of signoras rolling out fresh pasta while the men grill up meat and polenta on the wood fire grills in the back field. Of course the festival specialty item will dominate the menu but usually standard sides from salami & cheese plates to french fries will always be offered as well. The festivals also provide entertainment for kids- various carnival type booths are set up offering prizes and street games, coupled with candy and gelato stations of course. FB_BlogTemplate-wideImage_01

The name of a sagra will feature the name of the food product that is being celebrated- there are tens of thousands of sagras held throughout the country year- round so there seems to be a festival for every possible item and regional dish including Sagra delle Castagne (chestnuts), Sagra dell’Uva (grapes) Sagra della Mortadella, Sagra degli Gnocchi (fresh pasta festivals are always a must!), Sagra del Risotto, Sagra del Carciofo (artichoke), Sagra dell’Olio (olive oil), Sagra del Prosciutto, Sagra del Pesce (seafood).FB_BlogTemplate-wideImage_02

 


Photo & entry credit: Liz Garrity

Easter in Italy

sm-meat02Easter celebrations throughout the Italian peninsula are many and quite diverse, as Pasqua is one of the most festive occasions of the year for Italians, second only to Christmas. Easter marks the end of a time of reflection during the period of Lent and then culminates with the joyous celebration of  Christ’s resurrection. The celebrations in Italy extend over a course of several days as opposed to just Easter Sunday. From the southern tip to the north, towns and villages during the settimana santa, or Holy Week, hold traditional religious processions and rites, popular feasts and folkloristic festivities including food fairs and performances. With the sun shining bright longer into the evenings,  Italians literally head to the narrow streets of centro storico into the main piazzas all week culminating on Easter Sunday to take part in parades and commemorations to honor this significant and joyous religious holiday.

Religious traditions are deeply rooted in the Italian people, although notably stronger in the South where these rituals tend to be upheld with more fervor and devotion. Vibrant processions take place where the local men serve as porters, carrying enormous statues of the saints depending on the day of the Holy Week. Some villages even set up a stage in centro where local townspeople re-enact scenes from the Gospel.  An example of one of these spectacular events is one of the oldest: La Processione dei Misteri (The Procession of the Mysteries) that symbolizes the events of the Passion and Crucifixion.  Held on Good Friday in the Sicilian city of Trapani, it lasts almost 24 hours while numerous floats make their way through the city  carrying the ‘Misteri’ (Mysteries)  statues.

sm-easter01Another ancient folk ceremony not to be missed is the famous Scoppio del Carro (Explosion of the Cart) event held in Florence on Easter Sunday morning. An antique cart, packed full with fireworks, is paraded through town pulled by white oxen adorned with flowers & herbs and surrounded by townspeople dressed in period costumes. At the end of the procession it gets set up in front of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore where it is finally ignited by a fuse attached to a dove-shaped rocket holding an olive branch – a successful explosion is said to bring good harvest & luck. Of course solemn mass is held all across the Bel Paese. In Vatican City on Good Friday the Pope retraces Christ’s Via Crucis during a ceremonious candlelit procession that leads to mass in St. Peter’s Square where thousands of pilgrims gather to participate.
Most Italians abstain from eating meat and sweets during Lent, so at the end of the solemn Holy Week on Easter Sunday the faithful gather with close family to prepare an abundant feast. The celebration typically starts with a rich morning Breakfast full of Dry Cured meats, Coppa is usually the preferred meat to throw into a frittata to be enjoyed with your morning cappuccino.
As a symbol of birth and the Shepard, typically agnello (lamb) is served as the main course.  In Southern regions lamb is often prepared as a roast with red wine, garlic & herbs while even further south at the tip of the peninsula, hearty lamb stews are served. In the North a simple rack of lamb is typical. Egg dishes, including egg stuffed specialty breads and frittatas, are also very common since eggs represent fertility, life and its renewal, symbols of Easter and the new beginnings that the arrival of Spring offers. Each regional cuisine will focus on traditional abundant platters that highlight nature’s local harvest including artichokes, white and green asparagus, fresh field greens, sweet peas and fava beans.

Easter-Double03Chocolate bunnies are not the common Easter treat in Italy like in the US, but rather intricately decorated precious chocolate eggs are the traditional gift. Supermarket aisles are stacked high with industry produced eggs, mostly for young children, rigorously made with a special sorpesa (surprise) inside. Every well- respected pastry shop and bakery produces their own finely handmade chocolate eggs- you can even pre-order and have them place a special present inside for your loved ones. Romantic tradition has seen young Italian couples get engaged this way with the ring being place inside the ultra-special premium egg. The other famous Italian Easter dessert is the Colomba , a light and fragrant dove-shaped cake similar to the well-known Christmas version, the panettone. The Colomba is usually topped with almonds and sugar before being baked and is available with or without candied peel inside. Many manufacturers are also now offering unique fillings including limoncello or Nutella.

MeatA truly springtime occasion, Pasqua coincides with nature’s awakening marked by flourishing gardens and blossoming orchards, finalmente the end of winter. Easter Monday, known as Pasquetta (literally “Little Easter”)  is also a national holiday in Italy. Since Easter Sunday is spent with family in church and then at home for the traditional meal, the usual custom on Pasquetta is to be with friends celebrating outdoors.  The saying goes “Natale con i tuoi. Pasqua con chi vuoi.”, meaning “Christmas with family but Easter with whomever you want!”.  Weather permitting, the Italians take mini road trips and head to the hills, countryside, woods and natural reserves for the famous  Pasquetta  picnic: some go all out & prepare a lavish barbecue style lunch while other groups keep it simple and make traditional picnic baskets filled with fresh breads, salami, cheese and of course vino. In recent years it has also become custom to take short trips to other European cities with a group of friends to celebrate the promise of new beginnings.

Throughout Italy, the arrival of Easter means it’s time for Easter Pie. The classic dish has different names throughout the region. Pizza Rustica, Torta Pasqualina, Pizzachino and Pizza Piena to name a few. Each region has its own twist, but one thing that is constant is low calorie it is not. Pizza Rustica is a pie filled with Prosciutto,  Salami, Ham, Sausage, Cheese, and lots of Eggs. Fratelli Beretta products will be flying off the shelves as Easter approaches, and these beautiful pies are being made by families all over the world celebrating this delicious tradition. This classic recipe pairs nicely with another Italian classic, Chianti.

Easter-Landscape_02

Easter-Double02

Easter-Double01

Easter-Landscape_01

 


Photo & entry credit: Liz Garrity

“LA SETTIMANA BIANCA” in the Dolomites

Literally translated means “the white week”  or, as commonly referred to by all Italians, their last chance for a winter getaway and spend some precious outdoor time in alpine wonderland, i.e. the Dolomites mountain range in the Northern Italian alps, before the snow starts to melt & Spring arrives.

Long1-single1Typically, Italians plan for this weeklong holiday vacation just after they’ve settled back home following their famous Ferragosto summer holiday break which is normally 3 weeks off in a row mid-August….ohhh how sweet la dolce vita really is!

The Dolomites are proudly home to a number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites which are protected mountain landscapes of exceptional intrinsic beauty: from sweeping panoramas & alpine lakes to rising peaks these monuments are truly a spectacle to nature’s allure. The South Tyrol region, also known as Alto Adige, is a unique haven bordering Austria & Switzerland where the majority of the population speaks German as their mother tongue: the Austrian influences extend to the local culture as well including the distinctive cuisine.

There are endless charming fairytale villages & towns to visit including Bressanone, Brunico, Merano and San Candido while some of the top Italian ski resorts include: Cortina d’Ampezzo (Veneto), Madonna di Campiglio (Trentino-Alto Adige/South Tyrol), Selva di Val Gardena ((Trentino-Alto Adige/South Tyrol), Folgarida and Marilia(Trentino-Alto Adige/South Tyrol), Corvara in Val Badia (Trentino-Alto Adige/South Tyrol).  Many routes heading to the Northern Italian alps will have you stopping every so often at local cantinas and vineyards that line the glacial valleys- you can never go wrong by following the Strada del Vino signs that crisscross in & out of these scenic panoramas.

It’s no wonder these locations are also many Europeans’ favorite go-to-resorts as more than a dozen peaks in the Dolomites mountain range alone exceed 3,000 meters, usually ensuring fresh powder through early April. Towering rocky mountain peaks will demand your attention and first time visitors are often awestruck at their majestic beauty. From jetsetter Cortina to the relaxed and friendly Val Gardena, tourists can immerse themselves in spectacular mountain settings & truly soak in unforgettable scenery that will have you coming back year after year just like the locals!

Long1-wide

It’s pretty common that Northern Italian families have their second homes in the Dolomites, otherwise it’s likely for families to return to the same rental place year after year, creating a special bond to their beloved spot. Rather than booking  a standard albergo Italians usually opt for a farm stay, a sort of B&B system that positively promotes sustainable agriculture. You can recognize participating farms by the Red Rooster symbol. The owners will typically offer breakfast with a number of products that are locally grown. This is a great option for families as the apartments are ultra-cozy and are usually in the vicinity of a number of kid friendly local activities.

There’s something for everyone in the famiglia up in the Alps, even off-slope things to do. Winter sports range from Alpine & Nordic skiing, snowboarding  & snowshoeing to ice skating or simply sledding down a winding mountain path amidst breathtaking views. Passionate Italian skiers can’t wait to get their kids on the slopes so the ski schools are booked solid this time of year since la settimana bianca also perfectly coincides with the Italian version of the American “Spring break” right at the peak of Carnevale when most schools close for a week. 

Whatever one’s preferred outdoor activity,  another mountain delight that cannot be overlooked is a traditional, indulgent Alpine meal experience at a typical mountain baita.

Long1-wide2

These chalet style restaurants bode ideal locations just off the slopes & cross country paths where the awesome scenery will have you glued to your lounge chair after lunch soaking up the rays just like a proper Italian. The regional cuisine is distinct due to the German & Austrian influences where bold, earthy flavors are king. Most of the baita & stube restaurants will offer this fusion food of German & Italian traditions. Menu options are usually short & sweet: all the basics will be offered though, not to worry.  Offerings will strictly highlight local ingredients following regional recipes that will be sure to have your taste buds exploding, especially paired with a luscious glass of vino or a refreshing pint of artisanal beer. Portions are also abundant compared to other Mediterranean regions so be sure to leave room for a slice of homemade apple strudel topped with fresh whipped cream!


Some quintessential mountain dishes not to be missed:

Long1-single2Antipasti: polenta ai funghi topped with grated parmiggiano, zuppa d’orzo (vegetable barley soup),  goulash soup, chopped sauerkraut salad with crunchy flatbread, assorted smoked salami & aged cheese plates;

First course: smoked ham canederli dumplings, potato gnocchi, tagliatelle with chanterelle mushroom cream sauce, beetroot ravioli;

Main dish: venison with mountain herb & grappa sauce, roast pork with white cabbage, plums & apples, beef tagliata with sautéed radicchio & roasted potatoes;

Specialty dessert: apple fritters with vanilla sauce, apple strudel with fresh whipped cream, ricotta dumplings with fruit, vanilla gelato served with warm raspberries, chocolate Sacher cake.


Fratelli Beretta Speck and Bresaola are specialty meats typical of this mountainous area also to be enjoyed and savored. 

http://www.fratelliberetta.com/en/home/prodotti#s/?p=1&tipologia=Speck

 http://www.fratelliberetta.com/en/home/prodotti#s/?p=1&tipologia=Bresaola

Long1-single3A full day under the Alpine sun on the slopes merits a relaxing couple of hours at a benessere spa- another treasured wellness activity during la settimana bianca. Most hotels offer individual daily access to their spas & pools for outside guests if the local town spa is not your first choice. The ultimate spa ritual according to local South Tyrolean customs includes outdoor whirlpools of varying temperatures, panoramic glass enclosed Finnish saunas with sensational views into the surrounding woods, Turkish style steam rooms with high humidity enhanced by herbal essences, salt grottos, hot hay baths in herb-enriched grass, relaxing oasis rooms with waterbeds as well as numerous body treatment services including therapeutic massages. Most of these are adult only areas as tradition & current regulations call for sans bathing suits in these dedicated wellness spas. There will always be a family friendly indoor/outdoor pool option as well with lots of lounge chairs for end of day snuggles.


Photo & entry credit: Liz Garrity